New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 celebrated creativity, diversity, and innovation as designers showcased their take on the upcoming season. This year, the runway was a mix of bold statements (Area) and refined elegance (Proenza Schouler), with several standout moments from emerging and established fashion names. From Khaite to Proenza Schouler, Area, and Willy Chavarria, discover the best of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 below. Cover image: courtesy of COS
FASHION WEEK SCHEDULE 2024: THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO THE RUNWAY
BEST OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2025
It was easy to feel the uncompromised energy of the designers showing during New York Fashion Week – the events were buzzing with excitement. The upcoming elections might force designers to create statement-making collections, including subtle symbols and bold statements of unity everywhere you look. Alaïa’s evoked a lot of excitement and added value to the week, but the hometown heroes — Khaite and Willy Chavarria — captured New York’s vibrant spirit. And that’s not all; the American spirit in general (from Los Angeles to Texas and The Hamptons) was the centerpiece on many mood boards.
CELEBRATING NEW BEGINNINGS
Proenza Schouler kicked off New York Fashion Week 48 hours before the official start, setting the tone for what was about to unfold. From a loft on Harrison Street, right in the industrial district of Tribeca, the sunshine shed light on Proenza Schouler’s vibrant collection. Sporty, elegant, and a little less stripped down than previous collections, designer duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez slowly reinvent their house that’s become the pinnacle of high-end American design and isn’t longer inferior to quiet luxury colleague Khaite, to name one.
AREA celebrated its tenth anniversary with a pret-a-porter and haute couture collection in one. Taking handcraft and draping to the next level, the collection explored fluidity by slicing jerseys into delicate, spaghetti-like fringes. Draping, twisting, and knotting them to create glamorous gowns in black and silver-coated jerseys paired with silver-coated denim create exciting looks. The collection started with a fresh take on uniforms—often symbols of conformity that erase individuality. But at Area Fall 2024, uniforms become blank canvases, ripe for reinterpretation.
At Khaite, Catherine Holstein embraced her softer side. She explained that it might have to do with her love and light for her son, but she wasn’t sure. The show started with some classic Khaite looks, though. A sharply tailored blazer with sheer organza trousers, for example. When the show continued, the hand-knit ribbon peplum tops and midi skirts revealed Holstein’s new direction. The darkness and slickness the brand is known for are part of Holstein’s comfort zone – and this season, she felt ready to step out and step up her game by doing so. “This is not my comfort zone, but I wanted to venture out into making myself more uncomfortable,” she told Vogue. But in the end, a common thread connected her previous designs with her new path: comfort, function, and a timeless appeal.
EXCITING DEBUTS
At Off-White, Ib Kamara took his chance to illuminate the city from its best possible perspective. The house’s first New York Fashion Week show took place on Pier 2 in Brooklyn Bridge Park, usually a spot for basketball, handball, and ping-pong. The Statue of Liberty and the Brooklyn Bridge provided beautiful backdrops. Actors, tennis players, New York’s socialites, and fashion people gathered near the financial district to witness this debut. Ibrahim Kamara’s designs form a melting pot of styles – a reflection of his front-row guests. Glittery and glamorous tops were juxtaposed with tartan pants and logo buckle belts. There were lots of prints that fueled optical illusion, as well. A low-slung belt doubled as a skirt and the comeback of hip-flaps, which, according to some journalists, weren’t a great idea. Kamara is trying to find his voice at Off-White overall, and he’s getting better and better at it, and certainly belongs to the best of New York Fashion Week.
Alaïa’s debut at New York Fashion Week surprised in many ways; it marked the first time a fashion show was hosted at the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed building, the Guggenheim Museum. Despite a busy New York Fashion Week day, Pieter Mulier’s extraordinary talent held the fashion crowd in his grip. The moment Rihanna found her seat, the show started. “I looked pretty literally to some American designers that we haven’t forgotten in Europe, but that doesn’t have the status of what a Dior has or a Chanel has. And for me, they’re as important as them,” Mulier emphasized his love for American design. And so, the designer translated Halston’s jerseys into Alaïa-approved bandeaus and sweatpants – or, at least, some sort of. Charles James was the inspiration behind the sculpted puffer jackets – the showpieces of the collection.
COS STRIKES AGAIN
For the second time, COS hosted a show in New York to present their Atelier and Mainline Collections, most of which are see-now-buy-now. This season, nature’s influence is evident in the collection’s tactile surfaces, construction, and color palette. Earthy hues dominate, enhanced by rich textures and fabrications, with vibrant green accents adding a fresh contrast. Heritage fabrics and traditional designs are reimagined through modernist cuts, hardware embellishments, and innovative layering techniques. Besides being a high-street label, COS’ collection wasn’t inferior to those of more high-end houses. Its modern tailoring evoked a sense of contemporary femininity with fluid and oversized looks. Styled by the talented Jane How, the collection came to life by adding a dash of color (of which the green sock + ballerina was our favorite).
AMERICAN SWEETHEARTS
This season, Ralph Lauren decided to do things differently, presenting the World of Ralph Lauren and the Spring 2025 Collections in a unique fashion experience in Bridgehampton. The collection was filled with preppy, cowboy-chic pieces and a matching front row. From bootcut jeans to cable knits and other classics, Ralph Lauren didn’t shy away from his core, doing more of what he’s best at.
For Spring/Summer, Michael Kors delivers a masterclass in nostalgic elegance, blending the romantic allure of the ’50s with the sleek minimalism of the ’90s. Drawing inspiration from moody, vintage cinematography and iconic photography, the collection focuses on texture. Think laid-back luxury: relaxed raffia hand-embroideries, artisanal floral details, luxe lace, and effortlessly chic crushed satins and cotton. The silhouettes are about ease and sophistication—defined waists, long-line sheaths, flowing skirts, and relaxed trousers. Drama comes in with bold necklines and bare tailoring, while the color palette grounds itself in timeless black and white, earthy chocolates, ecru, and soft shades of blue and green. Accessories take craftsmanship to the next level—sculptural heels and flat fisherman sandals make an impact. At the same time, hand-woven leather market bags, braided handles, and artisanal tassels keep the focus on artisanal detail. It’s a season where sophistication meets a relaxed, lived-in luxury.
