In a move that redefines the loom’s potential, Sarah Brunnhuber’s latest collection introduces “Pulling,” a revolutionary weaving technique the upcoming designer developed over the past two years. Like smocking, her method gathers fabric to create voluminous, sculptural structures and shapes. Stem Edition 3 is a tribute to the enduring art of handcrafting, a skill rapidly fading. With her latest collection and the introduction of the Stem Mill, Brunnhuber might have found the answer to product waste in the fashion industry. Cover image: courtesy of Stem
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SARAH BRUNNHUBER’S STEM
Born in Germany and raised in London, Sarah Brunnhuber’s career in design took flight when she graduated Cum Laude from Design Academy Eindhoven’s Man and Identity department in 2018. It was here that she pioneered the Stem production technique. Her move to Copenhagen in 2018 brought about a groundbreaking career in fashion, including internships at Henrik Vibskov and Faustine Steinmetz. Brunnhuber’s talent as a freelance textile designer soon got noticed, leading her to volunteer with Fashion Revolution in 2021, where she managed Fashion Open Studio projects in Denmark.
Founded right after her graduation, Stem has always been centered around “an industry-changing approach to how clothing is made.” Its zero-waste woven textile system eliminates garment production waste. A Stem garment is made from recycled natural fibers and produced using their unique weaving, cutting, and sewing techniques. And it even gets better: every Stem garment is fully biodegradable.
STEM EDITION 3
Edition 3 celebrates slow fashion, opposing the industry’s sprint towards improving production speed season after season. Over two years of intensive exploration, Brunnhuber perfected her “Pulling” technique, with handwoven samples showcased in an installation. Transitioning these samples into wearable art, she studied the drape, form, and flow on the human body. Collaborating with design assistant Mathilde Mortens and weaving in the acclaimed mills of Bergamo, Italy, these pieces are the latest evolution of the Stem wardrobe (even though the designer refers to editions rather than wardrobes).
As seen in the previous collections, sustainability is woven into the most minor details of Brunnhuber’s designs. Every aspect of Stem’s narrative, from certified natural fibers to zero-waste production techniques, is carefully chosen and thought-through. The fabrics offer the wearer insights into the garment’s construction, from the number of pattern pieces to the amount of material saved from waste. This thoughtful approach educates and deepens the appreciation for the craftsmanship and dedication required to produce high-quality clothing. After all, making clothes remains a manual task.
STEM MILL
On the first day of Copenhagen Fashion Week, the designer presented the Stem Mill – a pioneering project focusing on three transformative pillars: enhancing Denmark’s circular textile infrastructure, creating efficient setups for small-scale production, and spearheading research, development, and education. The Stem Mill is not just a mill; it’s a vision of the future. It’s an understatement to say this is an excellent way to kick off Copenhagen Fashion Week, as it marks a new era of sustainability.
