Pablo Picasso’s famous words, “Every act of creation is first an act of destruction,” formed the start of the Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2025 collection. ” How can we preserve a fundamental identity while striving to push into new and unchartered territory?” creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez asked themselves. For their Spring 2025 collection, the pendulum begins to swing in a new direction, including craft, color, and print elements in a careful and considered fashion. An ever-present urban quality is cut through with a nomadic spirit. The reconciliation of the two represents the collection’s broader focus: finding harmony in traditionally incongruous elements. Cover image: Monica Feudi
AREA FALL 2024 – A CELEBRATION OF IDENTITY
PROENZA SCHOULER SPRING/SUMMER 2025
After a season of minimal designs, setting the tone for the quiet luxury tendency to take over the fashion industry, the creative duo approached their designs differently this season. “We’re rebuilding some of our codes from the past in new ways,” McCollough explained. The designers agreed that no one needs another black suit. But what do we need in a world of abundance? An emotional quality, they discovered. Picasso’s quote comes in: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez felt they needed to strip down the brand before reaching this point, deconstructing what they’ve built through the years to move forward.
DELICATE MOTIFS
Stripes play a starring role in this collection, referencing the minimalism of Barnett Newman and classic nautical themes, blending art and tradition effortlessly. The prints are an intriguing mix—painterly and abstract at times, while elsewhere, they take on a more delicate, floral vibe. The juxtaposition with oversized “sail” panels that float through the looks makes these delicate motifs feel fresh, adding movement and modernity. Fringe is another crucial detail, frayed and undone, often punctuated by grommets for a hint of edge. Belts are woven throughout, offering structure when paired with soft, pastel-hued pleated jerseys. In some looks, they almost create a trompe l’oeil effect the fashion industry has been so fond of lately. It’s this clever tension between hard and soft that defines the collection. Glitchy printed silks sit alongside embroidered feathers, while technical knits hug the body and are layered with hand-shredded silk organza skirts—an exquisite interplay of human craftsmanship and machine precision that elevates the season. Overall, the collection set the tone for the remaining shows of New York Fashion Week.
