Paris Fashion Week is fashion month’s cherry on the cake. The City of Love’s Fashion Week is home to many established names, juxtaposed with their younger colleagues. These younger counterparts often show their progressive view on fashion and sustainability, where established labels rely on their signature look and feel. This results in an interesting mix of designers, trends and cultures. Fashion Week translates the city into a melting pot of young and old, traditional and progressive and everything in between. Therefore, we provide daily updates about the shows, collections and the stories behind them. Today: Mugler, Maison Margiela and Dries van Noten.
Check out the complete Paris Fashion Week schedule here.
Cover photo: © Unsplash
Paris Fashion Week
The great thing is that Paris Fashion Week is home to many female designers. Take for example Sarah Burton (Alexander McQueen, Claire Wright Keller (Givenchy), Stella McCartney and Virginie Viard (Chanel) – all great women who show during Paris Fashion Week. We can’t longer suppress our excitement. Luckily, we don’t have to, since PFW is in full force. Read everything about Mugler, Maison Margiela and Dries van Noten below.
Wow. The first word popping up on our minds when watching Mugler’s Fall/Winter 2020 show. Back in the days, Manfred Thierry Mugler had his thoughts about sexiness. Without doubt, Mugler’s current creative director, Casey Cadwallader, has these thoughts too.
We can state that barely one of his looks were safe for work. Cadwallader’s naked items will be trending on Instagram and worn by Mugler’s famous clientele. Hence, the creative director showed the versatility of leather – a trending material. It gave the collection an extra dose of sexiness.
And then we haven’t even discussed the show’s casting, which was as jaw-dropping as the collection itself. It was diverse and over the top. Stunner Jill Kortleve, Bella Hadid and many other amazing models walked the runway fiercely, while wear some kick-ass empowering and sexy ensembles. Cadwallader embraces sexiness in every size and expresses himself via creatives excesses at Mugler. We simply can’t get enough.
John Galliano built on his former collection, shown at Paris Haute Couture Week. For this ready-to-wear show, he continued this direction.
In his podcast, Galliano called this approach “restorative“. He added: “I like the idea of maybe kick-starting a consciousness into enjoying these gestures.” This resulted in a very creative collection, with some runway-only looks. Deconstructed coats, dresses and other garments looked very beautifully, but aren’t suited for everyday life.
Hence, Galliano succeeds in making a statement. Re-using existing clothes and materials should be the new norm. Therefore, Galliano and his team sourced real vintage pieces and incorporated these into this collection as well. For example, we saw models wearing cut-dresses over vintage cashmere jumpers.
Galliano’s upcycling may look very modern, but it refers to Martin Margiela’s earlier work as well. On top of this, it’s a sign the entire industry should slow down a little. There’s enough to work with, Galliano sets an example.
Dries van Noten showed a Billie Eilish-inspired collection. Or, at least the models looked like the Grammy-award winner. Hairstylist Sam McKnicht gave models a typical Eilish-look, including neon-colored roots. While Eilish’s influence can’t be denied, MnKnight claimed he looked at images of Serge Lutens in the ’70s.
Likewise, Van Noten’s show was inspired by the ’70s as well. His signature flower prints, checks and bold combinations of these were at the core of the collection. Combining this with shearling, platform boots and colored ties, you get what one only can get at Dries van Noten. It’s a recipe for success, solely owned by the creative director himself. Van Noten teaches us about color combinations we didn’t even knew they could pull together.
Van Noten modernized his collection with Billie Eilish hair and snake prints. Both of them gave away the show’s annum. Despite this, the collection was classic, bold and timeless all together. In times like these, that’s exactly what we need.