In celebration of Jonathan Anderson’s ten-year anniversary at Loewe, the house presented ‘A Radical Act Of Restraint’ during Paris Fashion Week Men’s. The Loewe Spring 2025 menswear show was centered around a couple of reclaimed art pieces created by artists who inspire Anderson daily. Again, the creative director effortlessly blends art and fashion like no other. Cover photo: courtesy of Loewe
Also, read: THE WORLD IS YOURS, ACCORDING TO THE LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S SPRING/SUMMER 2025 SHOW
LOEWE SPRING 2025 MENSWEAR
The Loewe Spring 2025 menswear show is a masterly blend of art and fashion, which Jonathan Anderson has become known for through the years. The show setting brings together objects curated from some of the most distinctive artistic voices of the 20th century. The assembly is a testament to curatorial subjectivity and narrative interplay, invoking Susan Sontag’s vision of an ‘erotics of art’ where sensual pleasure triumphs over mere interpretation. Icons like Peter Hujar, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Carlo Scarpa, and Paul Thek converge in this space, embodying a spirit of fierce independence and quiet radicality. These artists transform everyday objects into extraordinary pieces: a chair, a coat stand, an easel, each imbued with architectural complexity; a photograph of a single shoe elevated to monumental status; whimsical artifacts created from bronze, capturing a magical scene. The fragmented mise-en-scène transitions from fantasy to reality, blending fairytales with daily life’s sacred yet mundane rituals.
Like Jacquemus, Anderson nails the art of thought-provoking concept development—the collection was as artistic as the exhibited art pieces. Again, Anderson makes its spectators rethink the norms around dressing: Where should we stick to the familiar, where should we experiment? And is what you see what you get, or do clothes form an optical illusion, creating new bodily shapes? Most of the models’ faces were adorned with big feathers, shying the attention away from their personalities and restraining the eyes’ focus from the face by letting them focus on the clothes instead.
And then there was an emphasis on trousers, which isn’t new to the Loewe universe; for Loewe’s Fall 2024 collection, Anderson sent models to the runway wearing solely pants (and shoes). Where the former collection focused on gay idolization and self-fetishism, Spring 2025 evoked a more mature feeling. It’s less gimmicky and more arty. The fine knits reminded of Andereson’s Spring 2015 collection, his first for the house. It set the tone for what would emerge under his creative helm over the next decade. Challenging proportions have always been central to his work, often enjoyable to wear yet challenging to style. The same holds for his Spring 2025 collection. Not all items might be a commercial hit, but as always, Anderson shows how fashion should be done.
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