This afternoon, Simon Porte Jacquemus presented his Jacquemus LA CASA. While many argue it marked his final show for his eponymous label, so far, proof is lacking. Even based on earlier hints (which might have been a typo instead of a reference to the creative director departing the house named after him), there’s no clear sign this was Jacquemus’ final show. Instead, it was a celebratory event in honor of his 15th anniversary. Find out everything you need to know about Jacquemus LA CASA. Cover image: courtesy of Jacquemus
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JACQUEMUS LA CASA
Where Chanel used to master the art of fashion show settings (the iconic supermarket remains unbeaten), it has fallen short lately. With Virginie Viard passing the baton to a new talent (perhaps Simon Jacquemus?), rumor has it they will be back on track soon. Until then, Jacquemus stays solely at the top. And, unlike Chanel’s last try, Jacquemus’s show seamlessly blended with its surroundings. Capri formed the ultimate backdrop for the Jacquemus LA CASA show, with a story as exciting and groundbreaking as the setting itself. Earlier, the designer explained that the choice of show location was personal. “I decided to create my brand after watching “Le Mépris” by Jean-Luc Godard, inspired by his vision on beauty and modernity. Today, I feel honored to be able to present our next show in Casa Malaparte.” Last year’s Met Gala also played a role in realizing the show’s location. “A photograph of Karl Lagerfeld opened the door to this house for me. Last year at the Met Gala in honor of Karl Lagerfeld, the print of this picture embroidered on my jacket caught the attention of the owner of the house. They were touched and decided to invite me to stay at the house. This is how I start the conversation,” Jacquemus explained.
The show’s star was BLACKPINK’s Jennie Kim—many models would die for a runway debut like hers. Kim had the honor of closing the show, donning the final look of the collection: a backless, sleeveless midi dress in elegant black crepe paired with black and white mules. Her look was complemented by the brand’s new Le Rond Carré bag in delicate light turquoise with golden hardware.
NOT A RETROSPECTIVE
Models walked onto the roof of Casa Malaparte, an iconic Italian architectural tour de force that “captivated the designer’s imagination fifteen years ago as he launched his brand,” the press release states. “The setting mirrored the perseverance in craftsmanship, design precision, attention to materials, and silhouette development. Every step taken was a testament to an indescribable honor made real.”
Zooming in on the collection, airy fabrics juxtaposed with stiff, architectonical collars and protagonist motifs prints dominate. The iconic apple green bowling bag will be a fashion insiders’ favorite, that is for sure. Moreover, bright yellow hues blended effortlessly with buttery tones, and again, the double heels were the centerpieces of many looks. The rest of the color palette is signature Jacquemus: neutral tones dominate (including many black looks for the summery setting), yet the designer opts for Capri-blue, bright red, and warm sage hues. Then, some extravagant prints fit the mob wife aesthetic, based on South Italy’s mafia wives. Zebra was dominant. And who knew it would look great with nautical influences? A male model dressed in a navy and white tenue effortlessly topped off his look with a zebra motif belt while wearing a giant yellow tote.
Some looks feel like an iteration of the past, but why wouldn’t he? The world wants more of his signature style, re-inventing itself season after season. If there’s one takeaway (or a few, actually), we’re sure bandeau will be significant next summer. So will big volumes (A-line dresses, which might refer to Jacquemus’ rumored move to Givenchy – a dive into the Maison’s archives shows similar silhouettes), juxtaposed materials (sheer versus heavy and constructed), subtle animal prints, and a hint of the South Italian uniform. After all, creating an image that lasts is Jacquemus’ most remarkable talent. And so he did.
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