This season, all eyes are on Copenhagen Fashion Week as a platform for upcoming design talent. With Sinéad O’Dwyer as the Zalando Visionary Award winner, the launch of Stem, Bonnetje’s first collection, and a new chapter for Forza Collective, the future of fashion is in Copenhagen Fashion Week’s hands. Discover the fashion designers to watch – Copenhagen Fashion Week edition. Cover image: James Cochrane
Also, read: HELLE HESTEHAVE AND RIKKE BAUMGARTEN LOOK BACK ON 25 YEARS OF BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
FASHION DESIGNERS TO WATCH AT COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
STEM
Born in Germany and raised in London, Sarah Brunnhuber’s career in design took flight when she graduated Cum Laude from Design Academy Eindhoven’s Man and Identity department in 2018. It was here that she pioneered the Stem production technique. Her move to Copenhagen in 2018 brought about a groundbreaking career in fashion, including internships at Henrik Vibskov and Faustine Steinmetz. Brunnhuber’s talent as a freelance textile designer soon got noticed, leading her to volunteer with Fashion Revolution in 2021, where she managed Fashion Open Studio projects in Denmark.
Founded right after her graduation, Stem has always been centered around “an industry-changing approach to how clothing is made.” Its zero-waste woven textile system eliminates garment production waste. A Stem garment is made from recycled natural fibers and produced using their unique weaving, cutting, and sewing techniques. And it even gets better: every Stem garment is fully biodegradable.
STEL
Launched on the 5th of August, STEL was one of the most exciting brands to look out for during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Under the creative lead of Astrid Andersen, a pioneering name in the industry who moved away from it three years ago, Stel is about to flip the Danish fashion industry upside down. Her previously industry-applauded menswear line was just a preview of what would come when launching a womenswear label. Her archive shows an intricate mix of utility wear and lace, opposing materials, a combination of cultures, and hints of streetwear. The designer refers to Stel, meaning “body” in Danish, as her “2.0” – mirroring her stage in life as a designer, but also as a human being in general. “Having gone through the journey of growing as a woman and also having kids, with all the conversations you have across those experiences, it became really important to me that this functions to empower females through certain fits, built-in flex, and adaptability in the wearing,” she explained to Vogue.
SÓL HANSDÓTTIR
The label’s conscious and holistic business strategy is nothing short of visionary. By meticulously sourcing materials, utilizing upcycled fabrics, deadstock, end-of-life textiles, and locally sourced materials, every made-to-order piece is handcrafted in the studio to perfectly balance demand and avoid overproduction. Furthermore, Icelandic folklore and handcraft, combined with cutting-edge patternmaking, are at the core of Hansdótir’s designs.
The Icelandic designer is a graduate of Central Saint Martins’ MA fashion course, class of 2021, where she earned the L’Oréal Creative Awards from Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and was recognized as a L’Oréal pro scholar; her formative years included training with fashion moguls such as Richard Malone and Hillier Bartley. Furthermore, she has assisted at Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, and J&M Davidson.
FORZA COLLECTIVE
In an earlier conversation with TRIBUTE TO, Forza Collective’s Kristoffer Kongshaug made his brand’s purpose loud and clear. “My mission is to create no-nonsense yet technically advanced pieces of the highest quality that are as beautiful on the inside and outside. At the same time, a minimum carbon footprint is guaranteed. We call it utilitarian couture,” explains Kongshaug. “I realized I always tend to return to wear the same nylon staples and, being a fabric that is normally associated with sportswear, it inspired me to take on the challenge of working with the material in an untraditional way and create something that was maybe not obvious at first but as a result seems so evident.”
CARO EDITIONS
Caro Editions is one to watch. It was founded by Copenhagen’s most successful power couple, Caroline Bille Brahe and Frederik Bille Brahe. To call their aesthetic “Scandinavian cool” is an understatement since Caroline Bille Brahe doesn’t believe in the aesthetic as such. Playful and effortlessly chic, Caro Editions brings a signature Caroline Bille Brahe touch to every piece through unique shapes and bespoke details. Beyond two collections a year, Caro Editions offers exclusive upcycled denim designs and limited-edition statement pieces.
SINÉAD O’DWYER
A Zalando Visionary Award Winner, the London-based Sinéad O’Dwyer is a true trailblazer. Since the start of her eponymous brand, the young designer has redefined luxury with intentionally crafted garments designed for women, femmes, and gender non-conforming individuals of all shapes and sizes. At the heart of their design process is a celebration of diverse bodies, with attention given to every stage, from research and development to the final product. This profound respect for the human form and a radical approach to design sampling and production sets Sinéad O’Dwyer apart within the industry. Prioritizing functionality and contemporary silhouettes, the brand uses its unique perspective to challenge and reframe outdated misconceptions about specific garments and their bodies.
BONNETJE
By repurposing defunct materials, Bonnetje champions the evolution of fashion beyond our current throwaway culture. Their commitment spans past, present, and future sustainable practices. Bonnetje isn’t about inventing a new style but offering a fresh perspective on circular fashion. Collaboration is critical, bridging contemporary peers with cross-generational insights to preserve and revive yesterday’s fashion for today’s audience. Their innovative approach involves turning parts of refashioned suits inside-out, showcasing the exquisite craftsmanship of hidden details like seams, pockets, and lining.
