For the first time in history, Milan Fashion Week hosted an online event. The fashion party of the year was packed with creative alternatives to the traditional fashion show. Discover the best of Milan Fashion Week below.
Cover photo: © Pexels
Best of Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week is known for its traditional values and elite inner circle. That was, until today. Due to the worldwide pandemic (or should we say thanks to?) many haute couture shows are now open to the public.
1. Prada Spring/Summer 2021
Prada presented “The Spring/Summer 2021 Show That Never Happened”. In their concept #MultipleViews, five global creatives interpreting different aspects of the collection with photography and film. In five separate videos, well-known artists displayed the Prada Spring/Summer collection. “A collection in which radicalism is found in purity; an antidote to complexity in precision; in apparent fragility, strength; and through rigor, joy.”
According to Willy Vanderperre, the collection felt like “A look into the past with the future ahead.” Vanderperre, part of the “Antwerp Six”, described the ensembles as “stripped from fashion ideas“, in such a way that they become fashion again. German fashion and art photographer Juergen Teller created an industrial scene with elegant and modern looks, where Joanna Piotrowska did the opposite. She directed a short movie that felt sensual and elegant, rather than industrial. She explains: “Gesture and physicality are an essential non-verbal form of communication and play a big role in the conceptual and compositional aspects of my work. The finger snap is a quick and subtle, yet attention-demanding action. It is also used to indicate approval or to maintain rhythm.”
Martine Syms’ video evoked some 60s feelings. She explains: “Since the collection pieces have a ’60s feeling to them, I tried to include several references to cinema culture and surveillance/sousveillance from that time period and the present. I’m inspired by the way screens have come to make and unmake us—and what it means to be living, breathing, moving, fleshy things in a world full of them.” At last, Terence Nance’s video came forth out of “speed and play“. He adds: “I have no words through which to decode what the meaning is and was and will be, but it may be about time.”
So far, this might have been the most original way to present a collection – Prada nailed it once again. Nonetheless, presentation shouldn’t overshadow content. Miuccia Prada’s designs were more on point than ever. Well done.
2. Dolce & Gabbana
Domenico Dolce doesn’t like the “digital solution” and is very clear about it. Since fashion begins with people, a show simply can’t be replaced by a digital alternative. That being said, they moved their show from Milan to right outside the city. The new location fully the new standards and hence provided a ‘fashion’ crowd full of soon to be general practitioners. While this might sound strange, it wasn’t a coincidence. Dolce & Gabbana have supported Humanitas University, the educational arm of the privately funded—but public-treating—medical group. Their campus garden seemed to be the perfect place to host a fashion show.
Despite the fact that we usually don’t cover menswear shows, this Milan Fashion Week is an exception. Designers’ efforts to create original collections in different manners and under other circumstances that they’re used to, should be rewarded. On top of this, Dolce & Gabbana created a collection that wouldn’t look out of place in a women’s wardrobe. Every single look was envious, but the one below might be the most envious of all. The ultra-short cardigan – almost a bolero, but chic – combined with perfect casually worn pants and a very classic, crisp white blouse. Does it get any better?
Besides this great look, Dolce & Gabbana’s show evoked a sense of hope. It shows that fashion shows can take place physically, under the right circumstances. It means we don’t longer have to squeeze ourselves on the way too small benches, resting on each other’s lap. The future suddenly looks a little brighter.
3. Ermanno Scervino
Ermanno Scervino presented a Resort 2021 collection at July 16. The look book was shot in his Florentine villa’s botanical garden. The garden is packed with tropical trees and ancient fruits – some of which grow nowhere else anymore. The magical setting enhanced Ermanno Scervino’s truly romantic collection. Think of white lace, embroideries and feminine cuts. All of them form an integral part of Scervino’s signature looks. The designer and creative director didn’t let the lockdown dim his romantic light. On the contrary, his Resort 2021 collection felt more romantic and frivolous than ever. Something that’s understandable when spending lockdown in a mesmerizing garden like his.
Nonetheless, Scervino had a hard time to put together this collection. Many factories were closed and the precise embroidery work wasn’t that easy to do from home. Therefore, he’s extra proud of his entire team. Over all, the collection shows how limited means can lead to the most creative outcomes.
Alessandro Michele’s “Epiloque” – a 12 hour long live stream in honor of his Resort 2021 collection – was truly authentic. It will definitely become part of historic fashion moments to remember. Staged at the glorious Renaissance-era Palazzo Sacchetti in Rome, captured “the show within the show”, as Michele refers to his fashion campaigns. Part of this “show in show” were his team members, each showing the pieces they’ve worked on.
Concerning the clothes: they were filmy and dreamy as always. Michele combined sports influences with beaded florals, flares and lots of velvet. This collection is, once again, signature for Michele’s work. Contradictory elements provided a new dimension to the brand as a whole. Despite this, Epilogue is Michele’s last Resort collection, after he announced to reduce the number of collections a year. According to Michele, this collection should be seen as the beginning of something new. And if you put it that way, the future will be exciting.
Also read our related articles:
- Best of Paris Haute Couture Week, July 6-8 2020
- Famous fashion models debut at the very first virtual fashion show ever
- Digital fashion weeks: the new normal?
- Fashion Revolution Week is more relevant than ever – and here’s why
- London Fashion Week will become a gender-neutral digital platform
- What’s next? The impact of COVID-19 crisis on the luxury market