The Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 men’s collection, including dolphins and ultra-short shorts, formed an ode to surfer culture – the Sabato de Sarno way, that is. Cover image: courtesy of Gucci
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GUCCI SPRING/SUMMER 2025 MEN’S
“Like the sea that washes every shore without prejudice, so too a museum is an entirely open space, nourishing those drawn to it. This collection speaks of encounters – incontri – between the city and the beach among people who love life. Ultimately, it speaks about freedom. I feel free when there is no distance between my words, thoughts, actions, and heart. I hope that people feel free and welcomed in my clothes,” Sabato de Sarno explained about the Gucci Spring/Summer 2025 men’s collection. The show felt light, modern, and on-point. With the sea, and surfing culture in particular, as a starting point, Milan’s Triennale di Milano felt like the perfect location for the interaction between Gucci’s heritage and De Sarno’s take on menswear. Triennale currently has an exposition of artist Gae Aulenti on view. One of his most famous quotes, “Tradition is not something that is inherited but is built day by day,” was central to De Sarno’s mood board. Well, the collection featured some traditional Gucci pieces indeed. De Sarno used Gucci’s sharply tailored jackets as the surprising companions for the ultra-short shorts – one of the creative director’s recent signatures for the house. The graphic prints, though, were completely new and created by his hand. Like in Gucci’s recent women’s collections, the motif had a couple of variations. They feature palms, dolphins, or hibiscus leaves, creating a playful take on the more grown-up Gucci De Sarno has shown to date.
He added beaded fringe for more frivolousness, hinting at the style of his predecessor, Alessandro Michele. De Sarno didn’t shy away from other jokes and fun elements: there were double sunglasses (one worn on the face and an identical one on the back of the neck, as surfers do) and dolphin pendants, referring to the most playful creatures of the sea. Furthermore, the double-G logo was printed on polos and other garments. Before surfers get too excited, one item reveals that the collection isn’t all about them: the almond-toe horse-bit boot is anything but practical at the beach.
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